PROJECT CARS > TRACK > MILD > EXAMPLE SPEC SHEET
OK, You've chosen to "Go TRACK MILD" and move past the basic bolt on mods offered in the "Wild street package" - where do we go from there?
That's kinda dependent on what kind of track events you are looking at participating in, and if you plan to drive the car on the street at all or not, but we will save the "fender to fender you need a cage" car for the "Wild" track car page and concentrate on what works for HPDE days and similar events. We will have a longer list, and longer lists cost more - but you knew that. The emphasis is on an even higher level of performance at the expense of comfort. In order to do that you will give up ride compliance, and we will replace some perfectly good parts that you already have with substitutes that increase the total weight loss to around 150lbs. So, where so we start?
Obviously you can go certifiably insane on the $ at this level, but again, keep in mind that these are "bang for the buck" packages. If you have more flash cash, we can certainly spend it for you. Since most of you already know that a good SC/Turbo kit will run you ~$10K installed, lets concentrate on preparing the car for that install. Don't be a goomer and do it the other way around.
Brakes:
The Brake Upgrade we have selected is the not quite ready for Prime Time Dali-Racing Brake Aluminum Caliper Plus 2 setup with 2 piece open slot rotors as it fits under 17" front rims and a larger % of the aftermarket rims currently in use because of the slimline design while providing a large increase in heat processing capability over the Racing Brake Plus 1 setup used in the "Mild" street upgrade and saves almost 30Lbs over the Racing Brake Plus 2 upgrade we use in the "Wild" street kit! If you have a 1997+ you also get a nice increase in the rotor diameter for increased brake "torque". You guys driving the older cars will be amazed. RB SS lines, HAWK HP+ short track performance pads and Ate high temp brake fluid round out this package. Since track cars don't need parking brakes, it does not have any. If you need to keep it from rolling away in the pit leave it in gear or we can install a line lock. Note that line locks are not street legal parking or emergency brakes, although they work fine for that purpose for temporary parking..
Wheels:
While wheel appearance is often the deciding factor for most people on the street, this page is all about track level performance at the best price. You want BIG BRAKE package clearance w/out spacers and light weight while still tucking in under the OEM fender. With that in mind we have selected the VOLK RE30 in 17 X 8.0" and 18 X 9.5". Weighing in at only 15.80lbs front and 17.90lbs for the rear they will save you several lbs EACH over some of the other so called performance rims out there. They also allow for the fitment of some nice wide up to date performance tires like the Falken 615s or Nitto NT01 we prefer.
Suspension:
Since this is moving away from a weekend tracker that can also commute if called upon to a weekend racer that is barely liveable on the street, a long warranty and long part life is less important than saving weight and more tuning capability for dialing in your personal performance preferences. With that in mind, we have selected the Dali Semi Pro track kit, a light weight height adjustable coil over kit. In addition, a set of the Dali track swaybars tame what body roll is left - YIKES!!! I ought to have all of that on my car. Oh that's right, I do. Throw in a set of Type-R front and Dali rear chassis bars, and you will soon be a legend in your own mind. While we are under there we might pop in a non compliance rear beam and set of toe links.
Headers/Exhaust:
The OEM exhaust manifold designing department must have been where they ran out of $ - what a restrictive boat anchor the early cars came with! You 1997+ guys are luckier in that regard, still, even the newer cars can get a few more ponies out of a set of tuned headers and lose some weight in the process. Both of these are tuned for NA operation and are street legal too not that it really matters on a track car. Pick the Comptech or DC Sports. Pair those with a lightweight exhaust like the Dali Liteweight or Dali Center Out and what have you got? + 35-40 HP and a sound that you will like even with your helmet on!
Intake/TB/Fuel System:
The OEM intake has the right idea, (cold air) but it kills all the great sounds inside the motor. We pull your OEM airbox and bolt on our PYTHON INtake and channel more air in the right direction. When it gets there it meets up with the BIG Throttle Body. Just to make sure it is all working like it is supposed to we clean the injectors. Early cars (1991-1994) get the Dali Chip.
Aero Mods:
A few nice Aero bits never hurt anyone as long as they were not of the "parachute" wing design school, especially if they are lighter than the OEM bits. May we offer:
The Dali Type-R Wing, @ 6lbs, it is 5lbs lighter than the OEM wing it replaces.
General Weight Shaving:
Well there you are. You've lost weight and gained HP at the same time while keeping the A/C & stereo and those comfy OEM seats. There are more tweaks we can do to lower the weight still more or add more of this or less of that, but you get the general idea.
Note: Race shells save lots of weight but need to be sat in before you buy them, and will NOT give you any added head room if you get bottom mounts/sliders etc. If you are actually going to drive the car on the street we recommend a thinner seat cushion instead.
The car will have an on the edge feel that makes the stock NSX feel flabby in comparison. At least until you get used to it anyway.... but that is what we are here for! Remember that these are just our suggestions - we can do whatever you want.
Total weight loss over stock: XXX.XX Lbs (detail link)
Total price: $XXXX.XX (detail link)